Got @page working for page count, page margin, headers and footers for PDF, here's how:
<ul>
<li>Compose in nvalt (awesome think-space, right?)</li>
<li>Preview in Marked, make a customized .css page (bonus: I edit this in nvalt)</li>
<li>Save as HTML from Marked</li>
<li>Convert to PDF with PrinceXML (free non-commercial version with a little-bitty watermark in the upper right hand corner... fine for my purposes). Command line tool, non-taxing. http://www.princexml.com/</li>
</ul>